Manufacture of shoes



June a, 1937.

' E. H. BASTABLE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed June 5, 1935 5 I l Inventor, zdwardflflastaze Atgs.

Z my, W;mwf

Patented June 8, i937 ,osa sv 7 Claims.

This invention relates to the manufacture of shoes and more particularly to an improved method of and means for securing the heels to the uppers.

In the manufacture of shoes in accordance with the usual practices considerable difiiculty has been encountered in providing a reliable connection between the heel and the upper, particularly with wooden heels commonly used in womens shoes. The hardness, density and tendency of such heels to split, and the relatively small area of the heel seat available for the usual attaching elements, and their extreme height, makes it very difficult to attach such heels so firmly and securely to the heel seats of shoes as to prevent them from breaking away from the counter, either at its rear part or from the shank portion of the sole at its forward or breast edge. The tendency of the heel to separate from the rear or counter portion of the upper is particularly noticeable since the rear edge of the lower surface of the heel receives the blow of placing the foot upon the ground, and. as this rear edge lies in a plane substantially below the plane of the heel seat, such blow acts with a long moment arm tending to swing the heel about its forward upper edge as an axis. This powerful leverage is resisted only by the fasteners of the rear part of the heel and as such fasteners, due to the peculiar contour of such a heel, can not be disposed closely adjacent to the rear edge of the heel, they furnish but little resistance to separation of the heel fromthe shoe.

In order to overcome this difflculty the use of a reinforcing plate has been suggested, the plate being anchored at its center to the heel by bolts or other fastening elements which extend into and are embedded in the heel. Such reinforcing plates are either of fiber board or a light sheet metal and although they improve anchorage to some extent, they are apt either to become loosened, as in the case of fiber plates, or slightly buckled, as in the case of light sheet metal plates, and eventually the clamping pressure of the plate is greatly reduced so that a gap develops around the rim of the heel. This condition not only presents a poor appearance, but also affects the comfort of the wearer and may cause serious foot ailments.

The principal objects of the present invention are to provide an improved method of and means for attaching heels to the heel seats of shoes, which overcomes the aforementioned difficulties; to provide a method of and means for attaching a heel seat plate which can berelied upon permanently to hold the upper and counter of the shoe to theheel and which eliminates a temporary attachment of the heel to the shoe upper and allows the heel to be attached while on the last by means of a screw or the like permanent fastening element; to provide a heel seat plate which strengthens the shoe structure at and adjacent to the heel breast lines and which provides means for attaching a shank piece and which holds such shank piece against twisting movement; and to provide an improved method of and means for forming and/or reinforcing a metatarsal arch support.

Further objects will be apparentfrom a consideration of the following description and the accompanying drawing, wherein Fig. 1 is a top plan view, with parts broken away and shown in section, of a womans shoe constructed in accordance with the present invention;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary longitudinal section of the shoe shown in Fig. 1 mounted on a last;

Fig. 3 is a section on the line 3-3 of Fig. 1;

Fig. 4 is a top plan view of one form of heel seat plate, shank piece and anchoring plate;

Fig. 5 is a side elevation of the heel seat plate shown in Fig. 4;

Figs. 6 and '7 are fragmentary bottom plan views, showing modified forms of heel seat plates and shank pieces; and

Fig. 8 is a fragmentary longitudinal section through a mans shoe constructed in accordance with the present invention.

Referring to Figs. 1 to5, the numeral l designates a heel seat plate which is of sheet metal or like material, and which comprises a body portion 2 having a shape substantially similar to the shape of the heel seat of a shoe, and a plurality of circumferentially spaced arms i projecting radially from the curved sides of the body portion 2. The body of the plate preferably is provided with a central aperture 5 just large enough to receive the shank of a conventional wood screw or like fastening element, and between this aperture and the inner end of the plate is a pair of spaced transverse slits 6 and 1. Between the slits the plate" is offset .from' the main plate in either direction, as shown in Figs. 3 and 5, thus providing a socket for the reception of the end of a steel shank piece Ill, and between the aperture 5 and its curved end, the plate is provided with a struck-up prong 8.

In order to reinforce the arms and provide surfaces operative to deflect lasting tacks or like fastening elements, each of the arms is bent about its longitudinal center to provide a concavo-convex surface, as shown in Fig. 5.

The shank piece Ill consists of a strip of steel which is secured at one end to the heel plate and at its opposite end to an anchoring plate l2 (Fig. 4) which is preferably substantially semicircular in shape. In order to adapt the shank and heel plate to shoes of different lengths or sizes, the connection between the ends of the shank piece I0 and the heel and anchoring plates may be made adjustable, and to this end the telescoping socket arrangement shown in the lefthand part of Fig. 4 or the pin and slot connection designated generally by the numeral l4 (Figs. 4 and 7) may be employed. With either arrangement the effective length of the shank piece may be varied in accordance with the length or size of the shoe to which it is to be applied.

When the heel plate and shank piece is to be assembled with a shoe structure of known size or length, the effective length of the shank may be adjusted prior to its assembly with the shoe, and when such adjustment has been made the ends of the shank piece may be permanently secured in adjusted position, as by peening or otherwise deforming the pin or rivet member of the pin and slot connection l4, and in similar manner the socket connection may be burred, indented or otherwise permanently interlocked.

In Figs. 6 and 7 I have shown modified forms of heel plates l and l respectively, each of these plates conforming in size and shape to that of the, heel surface to which it is to be applied. In each modification the plate is stamped or otherwise cut from a piece of suitable sheet metal as in the previously described embodiment, and either simultaneously with or subsequent to forming the plate a series of openings is formed along the marginal portions of its curved sides. As here shown by way of illustration, the openings l5 of Fig. 6 are quadrilateral, and in Fig. '7 the openings l5 are circular. In each case these openings define a plurality of radial arms I6 and Hi and a rim ['1 and Il integral with the ends of the arms l6 and I6, respectively. The body portion of each plate is provided with a pair of struck-up prongs 8 which project from its upper surface, and suitable means, such as a plnand slot connection M are provided for securing the end of the shank piece Hi to the plate,

although, if desired, the end of the shank may be spot-welded, soldered or otherwise secured to the plate, as indicated by the number 20 in Fig. 6.

The arms l6 and l6 and also the rims I1 and if desired, may be bent to provide concavo-convex surfaces which not only reinforce the plate structure, but also provide surfaces capable of deflecting lasting tacks or like fastening elements striking their convex surfaces.

In making womens shoes in accordance with the present invention, a complete shoe upper 25,

be applied to the outer surface of the insole 30 so that the aperture 5 in the plate I registers with the opening 3| and bore 28, the concave surface of the arms 4 lying against the insole, and the anchoring plate l2 may then be secured in any suitablemanner to the ball section of the insole.

Where the last used is of the orthopedic type having a cavity for forming a metatarsal arch support, the junction of the shank piece and anchoring plate may be positioned within the area of the cavity, and if desired a filler element 34 may be interposed between the anchoring plate l2 and the insole, and the parts hammered or subjected to sufficient pressure to form the metatarsal arch support on the inner side of the insole. The end of the shank piece and anchoring plate may thus be used either to form a metatarsal arch or to reinforce the filler element 34 or other means forming the arch, as indicated at 35 in Figs.,1 and 2.

After having applied the heel plate, shank piece and anchoring plate, the prong 8 is clenched against the clench plate 29. so as to secure the heel plate and insole; and the lower edges of the quarter section of the upper, the counter and liner are turned or folded in and secured in place by lasting tacks driven through the inturned edges of the upper, counter, etc. An outsole 36, having a heel portion 31 shaped to provide a heel seat, may then be applied in the usual manner shown in Figs. 2 and 3. The heel 40 may then be applied and while being held in proper position a wood screw 4| or like fastening element may be inserted through the bore 28, opening 3| and aperture 5 and then screwed or driven into the body of the heel so that its head engages the margins of the aperture 5 and its threaded shank is firmly and permanently embedded in the body of the heel. Prior to attaching the heel in the manner above described, a layer ofadhesive, such as rubber cement, may be applied about the inturned edges of the quarter, counter, etc., and to the exposed surface of the heel seat of the outsole and also to the heel seat surface of the heel in accordance with the Compo practice.

When using the type plate shown in Figs. 1 to 5, the lasting tacks thus applied are driven through the spaces between the arms 4, and when using the type plate shown in Figs. 6 and 7 the tacks are driven through the openings l5 or IE as the case may be. With either type plate the convex surfaces of the arms deflect the tacks, striking them so that they pass through the insole and are clenched against the clench plate of the last, as shown at 42 in Fig. 2. The shoe may then be removed from the lastand the usual heel nails may then be driven from the inside of the shoe so that they pass through the insole. heel plate, outsole, and finally into the heel, thus firmly securing the parts. If desired, the use of a heel plate having a preformed aperture 5 may be dispensed with as this opening may be formed after the heel plate has been applied by inserting a drill through the opening 28 in the last and drilling a hole through the insole, heel plate, outsole and heel. The screw 4| may then be applied as above described.

In making mens shoes in accordance with the present invention, the procedure is substantially the same as in making womens shoes, the heel plate being interposed between the inturned edges of the upper and the insole, as shown in Fig. 8. The use of the screw 4| may be dispensed with and the usual heel nails may be used to secure the heel to the outsole and upper.

In both mens and women's shoes constructed in accordance with the present invention, the

screws and/or nails securing the heel to the upper not only hold the heel plate in proper position, but also cause the rim and/or arms of the heel plate to clamp the inturned edges of the upper and counter firmly against the upper surface of the heel, thus overcoming the danger of the upper separating from the heel. When using the type plate shown in Fig. 4, the clamping pressure is distributed to a number of points about the periphery of the heel, whereas with the type plate shown in Figs. 6 and 7 the clamping pressure is applied throughout the periphery of the heel. With each type of heel plate the prongs 8 provide a reliable means for securing the heel plate to the insole so that the heel plate will be securely held in proper position while turning in and tacking down the edges of the upper,'counter, etc.

As the steel shank piece is firmly anchored at one end to the heel plate and at its opposite end to the ball portion of the insole, it provides a further reinforcement for the shoe which effectively..resists separation between the heel and upper at the breast line. Moreover, theconnection between the heel plate and shank is such that the latter is prevented from twisting or pronating, and hence there is no liability of the shank piece becoming loosened or getting out of line. The heel and shank piece thus provide mutual reinforcements and they also cooperate to reinforce the entire shoe structure.

While I have shown and described different desirable embodiments of the invention, it is to be understood that the present disclosure is for the purpose of illustration only and that various changes in shape, proportion and arrangement of parts, as well as the substitution of equivalent elements for those herein shown and described, may be made without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention as set forth in the appended claims.

I claim:

1. A shoe comprising an upper, an outsole hav' ing a heel portion providing a heel seat, a heel attached to said upper, the lower edge of the rear of said upper being inturned so as-to overlie the upper surface of said heel, a heel seat plate having a body portion substantially conformingto the outline of said "heel seat and a plurality of integral circumferentially spaced arms overlying said inturned edges, one face of said arms being convex to provide deflecting surfaces for lasting tacks, a fastening element'having a head portion engaging the body of said plate and the shank of said fastening element being embedded in said "heel, said fastening element permanently securing said plate and said heel and causing said arms to clamp the inturned edges of said upper firmly against the upper surface of said heel, and a shank piece disposed along the inner surface of said outsole and'extending from said plate to the ball portion of said outsole, one end of said shank piece being rigidly anchored to said heel plate and its opposite end being secured to the ball portion of said outsole.

2. A shoe comprising an upper, an outsole having a heel portion shaped 'to providea heel seat,

a heel attached to said upper, the lower edge of engaging the body of said plate and the shank of said fastening element being embedded in said heel, said fastening element permanently securing said plate to said heel and causing said arms and rim to clamp the inturned edges of said upper and counter firmly against the marginal portions of the upper surface of said heel, and a shank piece disposed along the inner surface of said outsole and extending from saidv plate to the ball portion of said outsole, one end of said shank piece being rigidly anchored to said heelplate and its opposite end being secured to the ball portion of said outsole.

3. A shoe comprising an upper, an outsole having a heel portion providing a heel seat, a heel attached to said upper, the lower edge of the rear of said upper being inturned so as to overlie the upper surface of said heel, a heel seat plate having a body portion substantially conforming to the outline of said heel seat and a plurality of integral circumferentially spaced arms overlying the inturned edges of said upper,

extending from said plate to said anchor plate,

one end of said shankpiece being rigidly anchored to said heel plate and its opposite end being rigidly secured to said anchor plate.

4. A shoe comprising an upper, an insole and an outsole, a heel attached to said upper, the lower edge of the rear of said upper being inturned between the insole and the upper surface of said heel, a heel seat plate having a body portion substantially conforming to the outline of said heel, said plate having a plurality of radially extending arms overlying the inturned edges of said upper, one face of said arms being convex to provide deflecting surfaces for lasting tacks,

a fastening element having a head portion engaging thebody of said plate and the shank of said fastening element being embedded in said heel, said fastening element permanentlyzsecuring said plate to said heel and causing said arms to clamp said inturned edges of said upper firmly against the marginal portions of the upper surface of said heel, an anchor plate secured at the inner surface of the ball of said insole, and a shank piece interposed between said insole and outsole and extending from said heel plate to said anchor plate, one end of said shank piece being rigidly anchored to said heel plate and its opposite end being secured to said anchor plate and providing a reinforcement for a metatarsal arch support. v

5. A heel seat plate comprising a substantially flat plate conforming substantially to the outline of the heel seat of the shoe, said .plate having a plurality of openings adjacent to its periphery defining a plurality of radial arms and a rim member integral with the ends of said arms, said arms being arcuate in cross section and one'of their surfaces being convex'to provide deflecting surfaces adapted to deflect tacks striking them.

6. A heel seat plate comprising a substantially fiat plate having a body portion conforming substantially to the outline of the heel seat of a shoe and a plurality of circumferentially spaced radial arms of arcuate cross section, one end of said plate having a slotted portion adapted to receive and retain in fixed position the end of a reinforcing shank piece.

7. A heel seat plate comprising a substantially fiat plate having a body portion conforming substantially to the outline of the heel seat of a shoe and a plurality of circumferentially spaced radial arms of arcuate cross section, one end of said plate having an adjustable interengaging 5 connection with the end of a steel shank piece. EDWARD H. BASTABLE. 

